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APARTMENT SECURITY
SECURING YOUR APARTMENT
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When the buzzer rings, check identity of
person(s) seeking entrance before
releasing spring latch on lobby door.
-
Unknown or suspicious persons seeking
entrance to the building should be
referred to the Superintendent.
-
Notify the Superintendent when your
apartment will be vacant.
-
Make arrangements with a neighbor or the
Superintendent to receive deliveries. Do
NOT leave notes on the lobby callboard.
-
Do not identify yourself on the
callboard as a female or senior living
alone. First initials identify you. D.H.
Jones.
-
When moving into a new apartment, have
the lock cylinder changed. Before
changing or replacing locks in your
apartment, check with the Superintendent
first. Permission is usually required.
-
Your apartment door should be equipped
with good quality deadbolt locks, with a
1" bolt. Install a wide angle door
viewer.
-
Secure sliding doors on the balcony with
"jimmy bars" or place a length of wood
in the bottom track, making sure it fits
snugly.
-
Good quality locks should be placed on
all windows, especially those opening
onto rooftops or balconies.
ELEVATORS
-
Do not enter an elevator if you are
suspicious of the occupant(s) - wait for
the next one.
-
When in an elevator, stand near the
floor button panel. In a difficult
situation, push as many buttons as
possible, particularly the ALARM
button. Do not touch the emergency
STOP button, as it immobilizes the
elevator, perhaps between floors. If
telephone available - lifting receiver
automatically activates alarm.
LAUNDRY ROOMS
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Do not do laundry when you are likely to
be alone.
UNDERGROUND PARKING
-
Be alert to vehicles or persons
following you into the garage. Never
enter your car without checking that it
is safe to do so.
-
Don't expose yourself to unnecessary
risk. Drive out of the garage if you
encounter suspicious circumstances and
report immediately to the Superintendent
or the police.
-
Lock your vehicle, remove high value,
portable items.
VACATIONS
-
Inform the Superintendent or a neighbor
of your departure and return dates and
leave a number where you can be reached
in case of an emergency.
-
Cancel all deliveries, including mail;
or have your neighbor pick up newspapers
and mail.
-
Use clock timers that activate lights
and radios to give the impression that
someone is home.
-
Small valuables should be stored in a
safety deposit box.
-
Before leaving, check that all doors and
windows are secured.
APARTMENT LOCKERS
-
Do not store valuable property in your
apartment lockers.
-
Report suspicious persons loitering in
the vicinity of locker rooms to the
Superintendent or the police ASAP.
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Home Security
If you are building or buying your own home, you
have the ability to determine what level
of security will be maintained.
When considering where to build or buy, consider
contacting the law enforcement agency having
jurisdiction to ask what the crime history
is for that neighborhood. Most agencies tabulate
crime by geographic area (called districts,
zones, sectors, sections, or something similar),
and should be able to provide this data as
public information.
Drive through the area to assess general
conditions. Are the potential neighbors
owners themselves, or are the owners
predominantly absentee and the occupants
primarily renters? While renters are not
negative neighbors in any way, owners just
naturally have a more intense interest in
maintaining their own property in prime
condition, and will tend to be more involved in
neighborhood affairs.
-
Is the area generally clean? Graffiti-free?
Homes in good repair?
-
Don't forget to check during hours of
darkness to assess street lighting, area
lighting, and the lighting on and around
your residence.
-
Are street locator signs in place at
intersections as you approach? Are street
addresses prominently displayed on all
(or most) of the residences?
-
Plant materials ("foundation
plantings") should be trimmed so that they
are not any higher than the sills of the
windows OR they have no branches below three
feet to create a clear-view zone.
-
Plants should not create places of
concealment, particularly adjacent to the
entrance or at bedroom windows. If plants
are overgrown, ask to have them trimmed
before buying.
-
If you are selecting plant materials, work
with the landscape designer to ensure that
the materials selected will not grow to
create a problem.
-
If the yard is fenced, are there any
gates? If so, where do they lead, and can
they be locked?
Remember that privacy fences limit the
ability of your neighbors and
police/security patrols to see the enclosed
area; if you don't really need the privacy,
consider a cyclone or other fencing material
which does not block open view.
-
Buried utilities are far less
susceptible to interruption, and are
unlikely to be manipulated by criminals; see
whether the service entrance for the
residence is inside the perimeter fence so
it is more difficult for the criminal to
access.
If the telephone and/or cable come in
overhead, look to see where the nearest
above-ground splice-boxes are located and
whether those locations are inside fenced
yards or are accessible to anyone.
Locks and Doors
Locks are your first line of security; most
burglars enter through an existing opening.
With locks, perhaps more than with other
hardware, you get what you pay for. You
shouldn't scrimp when selecting locks; a few
dollars up front can prevent a sizable loss
later. You want the best quality locks you can
afford!
You have security with a lock only when you
can account for every key; if you are buying
an existing home, pay for a qualified and
reputable locksmith to change the keyways and
establish good key control from the outset.
Key-in-the knob locksets offer virtually NO
security; if your home is equipped with
these, they should be replaced.
The most secure locks are double-cylinder
deadbolts, which require a key to operate
from either side.
-
The bolt (the part that extends from
the door) should be at least one inch long,
and should be hardened steel.
-
The strike (the plate which the bolt
sticks into) should be installed with screws
long enough to engage the structural stud
behind the doorframe (and not just the door
frame or trim like many are currently
installed);
a box strike (one which surrounds the
bolt; not just a "plate") is best.
The door should swing in to prevent any
attack on the hinges; if code requires a door
swing outward, it should be installed on
non-removable pin hinges or the hinges
should be "pinned" (meaning you remove the screw
from opposing positions on both top and bottom
hinges, and drive a pin or nail into one of the
holes; when the door is closed, this pin engages
the matching hole, and holds the door in place
even if the hinge pin is removed).
Any contractor can pin hinges (you can probably
do it yourself with simple hand tools).
Whether to have double-cylinder deadbolts
on a home (if permitted by local fire codes) is
largely a safety decision. Double-cylinder
deadbolts are those which have no inside
thumb-turn, but require a key to open from the
interior. While much more secure, they can pose
a threat to personal safety in the event of
fire.
Most law enforcement officials agree that this
threat can be minimized by forming the habit of
inserting yours key(s) in the main entry lockset
whenever anyone is home. This enables you
to have the security of the double-cylinder
deadbolt, but ensure that no one is trapped
should a fire or other emergency necessitate
evacuation.
The safest locksets are called
panic-proof deadbolts; they give you the
security provided by a deadbolt but open from
the inside with a single action (usually a turn
of the knob), thus preventing any entrapment in
the event of an emergency. Panic-proof deadbolts
are somewhat vulnerable to manipulation from
outside if adjacent to a glass panel.
Doors should be configured so that any glass
panel is at least thirty-six inches from the
inside doorknob to prevent manipulation from the
outside. If glazing panels must be closer than
this, non-breakable glazing should be used
(polycarbonate or acrylic panels are available).
If there is a mail slot in the door, it
should removed and the hole patched, or the flap
should be secured in place from the inside so
that the opening cannot be used as a means
through which the lock can be reached and
manipulated.
There should be a light fixture outside
every door on a house to enable a scan of the
area to be accomplished safely from inside.
Consideration should be given to use of globes
on such fixtures, which are vandal-resistant.
It is possible to wire such fixtures to a
photo-cell or timer so that they automatically
come on at dusk and turn off at dawn; this
arrangement ensures the exterior of your home is
illuminated during hours of darkness and makes
it more difficult for an observer to tell when
you are gone.
Very inexpensive (starting at about $20) motion
sensors can also be installed in almost any
existing exterior fixture (as part of a new
fixture, or as an add-in for existing fixtures)
that will turn on the light automatically when
anyone approaches the door. These can generally
be adjusted to determine how close someone
approaches before the light is activated. Most
of these devices also have a photo-cell so they
don't activate during the daytime.
If there is no glazing panel in the front door,
or the glazing is not transparent, a door-viewer
should be installed. Door viewers are available
which give a very wide field of view; the wider
the field, the better for security.
Sliding doors are inherently less secure,
and should be avoided if possible. Double-door
sets incorporating one fixed door and one
working door within a sliding door-sized opening
are much more secure and give nearly equal light
and openness.
If sliding doors are already in place, or must
be used for some other reason, make certain
the sliding panel is inside. If it's
outside, you've got a serious security problem,
because most can be lifted and removed, and
almost all effective security devices for
sliding doors rely upon the sliding portion
being inside.
Have your contractor install screws in the track
above the sliding part so it cannot be lifted
and tilted out of the frame. Ask for an
after-market security device such as a
"Charley-Bar", which is a solid bar that latches
in place between the sliding panel and the
frame.
Also install a pin-lock (drill a hole completely
through the sliding panel so that a solid metal
pin can be inserted and secure the sliding to
the fixed panel).
Most locks on sliding doors are of poor quality;
any device which latches to the frame can often
be jostled out of the locked position from the
outside. Look instead for a plunger-type lock
which operates in the same manner as the
pin-lock described above but incorporates a
keyed plunger.
French doors, or any paired doors which
do not have a center post, are inherently
insecure, and should not be used on the exterior
of a home. If an existing home has such doors,
security can be enhanced by installing
heavy-duty vertical bolts to secure the inactive
leaf of the set to the threshold and the top
jamb, and installing a quality deadbolt on the
live leaf to secure it to the inactive one.
Comments about hinges apply to these doors.
Auxiliary locks on doors, typically a
sliding piece attached by a chain to the door
jamb, are not effective security devices,
and their use is discouraged, as it tends to
create a false sense of security. Almost any
adult can force open a door secured only with a
chain; proper security is achieved by not
opening your door until you are satisfied that
you want to admit whomever is outside.
Locks are only effective when properly installed
in a quality door and jamb assembly.
Installing a quality lock on a cheap door is
pointless. And installing a lock improperly
negates almost all security value. Check to
ensure your primary security devices are
providing the desired protection!
Windows
Windows are an existing opening, and may also be
exploited by a burglar if not adequately
secured. Most burglars are, however, extremely
reluctant to break glass as this sounds carries
further than almost any other noise, and elicits
a response from most people who hear it.
Therefore, if you protect your windows, they are
not a security liability, and can provide some
security benefit.
The best single protection for windows is
storm glazing. Installation of auxiliary storm
windows on an existing house puts a whole
additional security layer in place, and usually
provides very adequate security. On new homes,
double and triple glazing is normally used for
insulation value, and accomplishes the same
function of defense against simply breakage.
Multiple layers of glazing are desirable.
Windows should be equipped with a locking
device; most manufacturers install devices
which provide very adequate security if properly
maintained and used. Any lock used on windows
should operable from the inside so the window
can be used for emergency egress!
Older homes may need supplemental security
devices if the original locks are no longer
operable or if none exist. Double-hung sash
windows can be secured with a pin-lock similar
to those described above for sliding doors; a
hole is drilled completely through the inside
sash so that a pin can be inserted which
projects into the outside sash, thus securing
both in place. Care must be taken not to drill
too close to the glazing.
Consider whether you want to install "stops"
on windows to prevent them from being opened
more than a pre-selected width, typically six or
eight inches, which is adequate for ventilation
but will not admit a human body. This is readily
accomplished by screwing a block of wood (or
metal to match the window, if available) into
the track above the sliding sash.
With stops in place, even if a would-be intruder
defeats your lock, he cannot open the sash more
than the limited width without breaking glass.
Thumbscrew metal stops are also available for
some windows, which are easier to adjust/remove
than traditional wooden stops. Obviously,
"stops" limit the ability for you to use windows
as a means of emergency exit, requiring you to
break out the window to quickly exit a room.
Security grilles or bars are not recommended
for home use; because they must be equipped with
a device to enable them to be opened in the
event of an emergency, they are vulnerable to
manipulation from the outside. While they give
the appearance of being secure, any competent
burglar knows they really aren't effective.
Other Outside Openings
Access to your attic should be inside your
security perimeter; in the garage or an interior
space. If you have an external access door,
consider having it professionally removed and
the opening permanently sealed; there is no
effective way to adequately secure such an
opening.
The same applies to hatches to crawl spaces
(externally-applied padlocks are much too easy
to defeat to provide any but the most temporary
security), and outside hatchways to basements
(although modern all-steel hatchways usually are
capable of being adequately secured from inside,
and not very vulnerable to manipulation or
defeat from outside).
Garage
If the garage is attached, does the overhead
door have an outside keyway? The most secure
garage lock is one which is applied inside and
has no outside keyway.
Garage door openers are vulnerable to
manipulation with electronic devices; if the
overhead door is opener-equipped,
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is it a current technology system with
multi-channel (owner-selectable) coding?
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Can it conveniently be turned off for
vacations?
If it is an existing system, make certain the
previous owner hasn't installed an outside
button for convenience; if there is one,
disconnect it.
If there is a side door to the garage,
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is it a solid-core wood or metal door?
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Is it equipped with a deadbolt lock with an
inside keyway (to prevent operation from the
outside)?
If you are building, consider putting in a
garage side door without windows, and use
better illumination. Garage side doors are often
outside the fence line, and anyone can look into
the garage and know there is no one home if
there is no vehicle inside.....
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Is the door between the garage and the house
a solid-core wood or metal door?
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Deadbolt?
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Open inward (or have pinned or non-removable
pin hinges)?
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If the attic access is in the garage, is it
equipped with a lock?
Alarm Systems
Alarm systems can significantly enhance security
if installed and used properly.
Phony "Warning: These Premises Protected by the
Acme Alarm Company" signs are usually not
effective; a serious burglar need only look in
the telephone directory to see whether an alarm
company exists. Most companies won't let
non-customers display their emblem, and the
burglars know that, too. There's no harm in
using such signs, but don't expect them to
provide any protection.
Always use a licensed vendor to install,
repair, or service an alarm system. While
licensure does not guarantee honesty, it does
indicates that the vendor has registered with
the state, and has met the specified minimum
criteria for your locale. In most cases,
licensure is predicated upon proof of adequate
insurance and/or bonding, so you have that
protection as well.
Local alarm systems (those which sound
only on the protected premises) are much less
effective, especially when local ordinances
limit the time for which the signal can sound to
avoid nuisance disturbance of neighbors. If you
invest in such an alarm, you are counting on
your neighbors to call the police to respond.
Having the signals from your alarm system
monitored by a licensed vendor better assures
that you get the protection you pay for when you
install an alarm system.
Continually-monitored is much better than
a center which your system dials; while almost
all systems rely upon telephone connection for
reporting, continually monitored systems respond
to interrupted service, while those which use a
dialer are useless if telephone service is cut
off. Since monitoring costs more, this is a
budget decision, but remember that you get
what you pay for.
The best alarm systems are those which
combine perimeter and interior detection
devices. Every door should be protected with
some type of switch device. Covering every
window (or even every "downstairs window" in
multi-story houses) can get very expensive very
quickly; your decision should be guided by local
experience with criminal entry through windows;
if that's a common occurrence in your area,
window protection is probably advisable. If not,
interior protection may be adequate. If window
protection is needed, glass-break sensors are
the preferred device.
Interior devices cover a volume of space, and
are typically ceiling-mounted. The
least-susceptible to false alarm are passive
infra-red sensors (which are really thermostats
that detect the presence of a human intruder by
comparing the 98.6 degree body heat to the usual
ambient temperature in occupied space which is
typically between fifty-five and seventy-five
degrees). Pets, air currents, rodents, and other
similar sources will not set off passive
infrared devices, and thus generate minimal
false alarms.
Don't forget to provide coverage for any attic
access in exposed or semi-exposed locations
(like the garage).
Consider installing one or more panic buttons
at fixed locations, or obtaining one or more
such devices which can be worn on a chain if you
have members of the family with health problems
or limited mobility.
You'll need to decide whether you intend to use
the system when you're home, or only when you're
out. If you want protection when you're at home,
the system will have to have "zones" so you can
arm the perimeter while leaving occupants
freedom to move about.
Every system has a control panel of some
type. In most home security systems, the
controls are concealed in a closet or utility
room, and only the controls necessary to operate
the system are in occupied space. In most
systems, these controls take the form of a
touch-pad resembling the one on your telephone.
You "arm" or "disarm" the system by punching in
a code.
Most users find it convenient for all members of
the family to use the same code, but many
systems are capable of multiple codes. Some
systems are also capable of using arm codes with
one less digit that the disarm codes, allowing
you to have a household worker turn the system
on when they leave, but unable to turn the
system off. You'll need to consider how you want
to use the system before making a decision about
type and installation.
Installing the keypad inside the
protected space prevents any access by
unauthorized persons, but necessitates that
there be a delay in signaling an intrusion (at
least from the entrance where the control is
located) in order to allow sufficient time for a
family member to disarm the system upon
entering. You can eliminate this delay by
installing the touch-pad outside the protected
perimeter. While this does subject the pad to
attack, you can minimize the risk by installing
it inside the garage rather than at the front
door.
Many people come and go through their garages,
and inside installation of the touch-pad
minimizes any opportunity for someone to attempt
to defeat the system through that device.
If you have high-value assets inside your home,
there are supplemental devices available
to extend alarm protection to these items. You
can alarm a closet used as an inside
"strong-room", a display case for collectibles,
a safe or vault, or wall-hung artwork. Any
competent alarm vendor can assist in devising a
means to protect almost any asset.
Alarm systems don't eat, sleep, get bored, or
take vacations. They are, however,
electro-mechanical devices subject to failure,
and must be tested regularly to ensure
they work as designed. Set up a test schedule
with your vendor; at least once monthly is
highly recommended.
A final word on alarms: If you're going
to pay for a security alarm, it costs very
little additional to incorporate fire detection
in a system, and that signal can also be
reported to your vendor, thus providing
continual personal safety and security
protection, but protection for the property from
fire loss. Installing a few thermostatic
detectors in the attic, above fireplace
openings, in garages and shops, and in the
kitchen will significantly enhance the speed and
effectiveness of detection of fire.
Inside Strong Room
If you have certain assets which you wish to
afford a higher level of security on a routine
basis, or you want to create a space within
which you can secure high-risk or high-value
assets during periods when you will be gone from
your home for extended periods, you might
consider creating an inside strong room.
Select an interior closet or similar
small space. Replace the door with a solid core
wood or metal door, Use non-removable pin or
pinned hinges. Install a deadbolt lock and a
matching box strike in the manner described
above.
If you have an alarm system, extend it to cover
the door to the strong room; provide a separate
activation touch-pad for this room if desired.
Now you have the home equivalent of a vault;
unless the intruder is willing to destroy
interior walls, it is unlikely entry will be
gained in the amount of time a typical home
burglar is willing to spend on the premises.
Bear in mind that, absent special protection,
this strong room remains as vulnerable to fire
as the rest of your home. Use of a safety
deposit box or off-premises storage for critical
records and small valuables is still strongly
recommended. |
Home Safety Checklist for Seniors
All Areas of the Home
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In all areas of your home, check all
electrical and telephone cords; rugs,
runners and mats; telephone areas; smoke
detectors; electrical outlets and switches;
light bulbs; space heaters; woodburning
stoves; and your emergency exit plan.
Question:
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Are lamp, extension, and telephone cords
placed out of the flow of traffic?
Recommendations:
-
Cords stretched across walkways may cause
someone to trip.
-
Arrange furniture so that outlets are
available for lamps and appliances
without the use of extension cords.
-
If you must use an extension cord, place
it on the floor against a wall where
people can not trip over it.
-
Move the phone so that telephone cords
will not lie where people walk.
Question:
-
Are cords out from beneath furniture and
rugs or carpeting?
Recommendations:
-
Furniture resting on cords can damage them,
creating fire and shock hazards. Electric
cords which run under carpeting may cause a
fire.
-
Remove cords from under furniture or
carpeting.
-
Replace damaged or frayed cords.
Question:
-
Are cords attached to the walls, baseboards,
etc., with nails or staples?
Recommendations:
-
Nails or staples can damage cords,
presenting fire and shock hazards.
-
Remove nails, staples, etc.
-
Use tape to attach cords to walls or
floors.
Question:
-
Are electrical cords in good condition, not
frayed or cracked?
Recommendations:
-
Damaged cords may cause a shock or fire.
-
Replace frayed or cracked cords.
Question:
-
Do extension cords carry more than their
proper load, as indicated by the ratings
labeled on the cord and the appliance?
Recommendations:
-
Overloaded extension cords may cause fires.
Standard 18 gauge extension cords can carry
1250 watts.
-
If the rating on the cord is exceeded
because of the power requirements of one
or more appliances being used on the
cord, change the cord to a higher rated
one or unplug some appliances.
-
If an extension cord is needed, use one
having a sufficient amp or wattage
rating.
Check All Rugs, Runners and Mats
Question:
-
Are all small rugs and runners
slip-resistant?
Recommendations:
-
CPSC estimates that in 1982, over 2,500
people 65 and over were treated in hospital
emergency rooms for injuries that resulted
from tripping over rugs and runners. Falls
are also the most common cause of fatal
injury for older people.
-
Remove rugs and runners that tend to
slide.
-
Apply double-faced adhesive carpet tape
or rubber matting to the backs of rugs
and runners.
-
Purchase rugs with slip-resistant
backing.
-
Check rugs and mats periodically to see
if backing needs to be replaced.
-
Place rubber matting under rugs. (Rubber
matting that can be cut to size is
available.)
-
Purchase new rugs with slip-resistant
backing.
NOTE: Over time, adhesive on tape can
wear away. Rugs with slip-resistant
backing also become less effective as
they are washed. Periodically, check
rugs and mats to see if new tape or
backing is needed.
Check the Telephone Area
Question:
-
Are emergency numbers posted on or near the
telephone?
Recommendations:
-
In case of emergency, telephone numbers for
the Police, Fire Department, and local
Poison Control Center, along with a
neighbor's number, should be readily
available.
-
Write the numbers in large print and
tape them to the phone, or place them
near the phone where they can be seen
easily.
Question:
-
Do you have access to a telephone if you
fall (or experience some other emergency
which prevents you from standing and
reaching a wall phone)?
Recommendations:
-
Have at least one telephone located
where it would be accessible in the
event of an accident which leaves you
unable to stand.
Check Smoke Detectors
Question:
-
Are smoke detectors properly located?
Recommendations:
-
At least one smoke detector should be placed
on every floor of your home.
-
Read the instructions that come with the
smoke detector for advice on the best
place to install it.
-
Make sure detectors are placed near
bedrooms, either on the ceiling or 6-12
inches below the ceiling on the wall.
-
Locate smoke detectors away from air
vents.
Question:
-
Do you have properly working smoke
detectors?
Recommendations:
-
Many home fire injuries and deaths are
caused by smoke and toxic gases, rather than
the fire itself. Smoke detectors provide an
early warning and can wake you in the event
of a fire.
Check Electrical Outlets and Switches
Question:
-
Are any outlets and switches unusually warm
or hot to the touch?
Recommendations:
-
Unusually warm or hot outlets or switches
may indicated than an unsafe wiring
condition exists.
-
Unplug cords from outlets and do not use
the switches.
-
Have an electrician check the wiring as
soon as possible.
Question:
-
Do all outlets and switches have cover
plates, so that no wiring is exposed?
Recommendations:
-
Exposed wiring presents a shock hazard.
Check Light Bulbs
Question:
-
Are light bulbs the appropriate size and
type for the lamp or fixture?
Recommendations:
-
A bulb of too high wattage or the wrong type
may lead to fire through overheating.
Ceiling fixtures, recessed lights, and
"hooded" lamps will trap heat.
-
Replace with a bulb of the correct type
and wattage. (If you do not know the
correct wattage, use a bulb no larger
than 60 watts.)
Check Space Heaters
Question:
-
Are heaters which come with a 3-prong plug
being used in a 3-hole outlet or with a
properly attached adapter?
Recommendations:
-
The grounding feature provided by a 3-hole
receptacle or an adapter for a 2-hole
receptacle is a safety feature designed to
lessen the risk of shock.
-
Never defeat the grounding feature.
-
If you do not have a 3-hole outlet, use
an adapter to connect the heater's
3-prong plug. Make sure the adapter
ground wire or tab is attached to the
outlet.
Question:
-
Are small stoves and heaters placed where
they can not be knocked over, and away from
furnishings and flammable materials, such as
curtain or rugs?
Recommendations:
-
Heaters can cause fires or serious burns if
they cause you to trip or if they are
knocked over.
-
Relocate heaters away from passageways
and flammable materials such as
curtains, rugs, furniture, etc.
Question:
-
If your home has space heating equipment,
such as a kerosene heater, a gas heater or
an LP gas heater, do you understand the
installation and operating instructions
thoroughly?
Recommendations:
-
Unvented heaters should be used with room
doors open or window slightly open to
provide ventilation. The correct fuel, as
recommended by the manufacturer, should
always be used. Vented heaters should have
proper venting, and the venting system
should be checked frequently. Improper
venting is the most frequent cause of carbon
monoxide poisoning, and older consumers are
at a special risk.
-
Review the installation and operating
instructions.
-
Call your local fire department if you
have additional questions.
Check Woodburning Heating Equipment
Question:
-
Is woodburning equipment installed properly?
Recommendations:
-
Woodburning stoves should be installed by a
qualified person according to local building
codes.
Check the Emergency Exit Plan
Question:
-
Do you have an emergency exit plan and an
alternate emergency exit plan in case of a
fire?
Recommendations:
-
Once a fire starts, it spreads rapidly.
Since you may not have much time to get out
and there may be a lot of confusion, it is
important that everyone knows what to do.
-
Develop an emergency exit plan.
-
Choose a meeting place outside your home
so you can be sure that everyone has
escaped.
-
Choose a meeting place outside your home
so you can be sure that everyone has
escaped.
-
Practice the plan from time to time to
make sure everyone is capable of escape
quickly and safely.
-
* Remember periodically to re-check your
home.
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Home Security & Safety Information
The facts about burglary:
-
More than 6 million residential burglaries
occur annually - that’s one every ten
seconds!
-
Nearly half of these burglaries are
committed without force - through UNLOCKED
doors/windows!
-
Many burglars will spend no longer than 60
seconds in trying to break into a home. Good
locks and good neighbors who watch out for
each other are major deterrents to crime!
Most burglaries can be prevented!
-
Always lock your doors and windows even when
leaving for “just a minute."
-
Never leave a house key available under a
doormat, in a flower pot, on the ledge of
the door. These are the first places a
burglar will look!
-
Exterior doors should be of solid core wood
or metal and have “dead bolt” locks with a
1-inch strong metal bar (“throw”) extending
into the frame.
-
Sliding glass doors and windows can offer
easy access if they are not properly
secured. You can bolster them by installing
additional security locks or putting a
broomstick or dowel in the inside track to
jam the door. To prevent the door being
lifted off the track, drill a hole through
the sliding glass door frame and the fixed
frame - then insert a pin in the hole.
-
Security locks should be added to garage,
patio or other doors that lead into the
home.
-
Install a wide angle lens viewer (180
degrees) in your front door - NEVER open the
door to someone you don’t know or don’t know
very well!
-
Use timers so that lights, radio and/or the
TV will go on and off, so that it appears
that someone is home even while you are
away.
-
Thieves hate bright lights. Install exterior
lights on timers that illuminate your doors
and windows all through the night.
-
Prune back your shrubbery so it doesn't hide
doors and windows. Cut back any tree limbs
that a burglar could use to climb to an
upper-level window.
-
Stop mail and newspaper delivery if you are
going to be away for an extended period of
time.
-
Consider an alarm system or owning a dog for
added protection. You can still post “Beware
of Dog” signs even if you don’t own one!
-
Engrave, photograph, and keep a list of your
valuables with serial numbers and
descriptions.
-
Remember - if you come home and see a broken
window or a jimmied or open door, DON’T go
in! Go to a neighbor’s home and call the
police immediately.
Protect your home while on vacation:
-
Lock all doors and windows.
-
Fill out a Vacation House Check form with
the Buena Park Police Department.
-
Make arrangements for someone to pick up
your mail and newspapers, and if you are
going to be away for a long period, stop
delivery.
-
Give a spare key to a trusted neighbor in
case of emergency and also an emergency
number so you can be reached.
-
Use timers for your lights, keeping the same
schedule as when you are home. You can also
put a radio on a timer, so the home seems
lived in.
-
If you are parking your vehicles outside,
have a neighbor move them periodically, so
they look driven.
-
Make sure all garages and outdoor sheds are
locked.
-
Have your lawn mowed and trash picked up if
you are going to be away for a lengthy
period.
-
Be sure and give a relative or neighbor your
itinerary and estimated times of arrivals at
major stops. Also, call and check-in with
the relative or neighbor so your whereabouts
are always known.
-
By taking a few simple precautions, your
vacation can be the pleasant, relaxing time
you planned.
The best
crime prevention ever invented..... A Good
Neighbor!
-
Law enforcement officers can't be everywhere
at once, but you and your neighbors can.
You're the ones who really know what is
going on in the neighborhood.
-
Put that neighborhood know-how to work. It's
simple: just use your eyes and ears - and
then your telephone. If you spot something
suspicious, call the police department
immediately.
-
Don't try to stop a criminal yourself - it
can be dangerous.
-
Neighbors working together in cooperation
with law enforcement make one of the best
crime fighting teams around.
-
Don't let anyone tell you that Neighborhood
Watch is an excuse to be nosey -
Neighborhood Watch programs have been known
to reduce residential burglaries by 45%!!
Please keep in mind that this is YOUR home,
YOUR neighborhood, YOUR community. Much of your
personal safety and that of your neighborhood
depends on your active participation in the
crime prevention effort. You are a vital part of
your community's security and welfare.
As an
active Resident, you should:
-
Attend Crime Prevention meetings hosted by
your neighborhood and the Police Department.
You will receive valuable information on
car-jackings, burglaries, personal assault
and more. Awareness and knowledge are your
best weapons against crime.
-
Attend and become involved in all
neighborhood events. Your ideas and concerns
count. You have an opportunity to meet your
neighbors and their families. You will soon
begin to recognize the people who live in
your neighborhood. It will help you identify
suspicious or unknown persons you might
observe.
-
Introduce yourself and your family members
to other residents. If you are a new
resident, take the initiative to make the
first contact. As you continue to live here,
make it a point to introduce yourself to
newcomers moving into the neighborhood. To
people who look forward to making this their
HOME, it makes them feel welcome and
promotes a "neighborhood" atmosphere.
-
IMMEDIATELY
report
suspicious persons or activity to the Police
Department. The dispatcher will want to talk
directly to you as the first hand observer
of the activity.
-
When observing suspicious activity or a
crime in progress, try to remember as much
detail about the person or car as possible.
Skin color, height, weight, hair color,
facial hair, clothing descriptions are all
important to the police as is the color of a
car, the make and model, the license number
and the direction of travel.
-
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO
STOP, CONFRONT, OR FOLLOW PERSONS ENGAGED IN
THESE ACTIVITIES.
Your role is to
observe and report only. You are the eyes
and ears of your community. With your
participation and responsiveness, you can
continue to live and work in a safe and
secure environment.
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